Tips to Conserving Water in the Garden

5 Tips to save Water:

What a difference a year makes. This time last summer, I remember cursing the incessant rain. It seemed that every day was a new downpour. My plants, and I had had enough!

This year, it’s the exact opposite. Where water was plentiful and the thought of drought seemed unimaginable, we haven’t had a drop of rain all summer and irrigation restrictions browbeat. Plants are dying, lawns are struggling, and access to water is becoming more and more valuable by the day.

How do you keep your lawn and garden alive in times of water scarcity?

Unlike stormwater collection, which deals with water collection options, water protection deals with ways to use this water in the landscape as efficiently as possible. The following steps will help you save the most water while keeping your lawn and garden alive.

Start right

Water protection in the local landscape begins at the moment when you place your plants in the ground, especially perennials, shrubs and trees.

The key is to encourage the roots to grow in the environment. The easiest way to do this is to make sure that the roots are not tied to the pot — the circular pattern in which many roots are forced if they are left in the container for too long. After all, these roots are so closely related that it is almost impossible for them to reverse the process or water is absorbed by these roots. In such matter, no amount of water helps to solve the problem.

Cut, tease, knead or separate these pot-tied roots if necessary to give the new roots the opportunity to grow outward by breaking This pattern and freeing them from this habit of continuous growth inward.

Then soak the Root ball and the planting hole to stimulate water absorption and awaken the roots to their newfound freedom.

Then backfill with native soil – no fluffy brew of store-bought amendments. The native soil helps the plants to establish themselves faster and encourages them to go beyond the initial planting hole.

To promote long-term health, during the growing season, make sure a dressing with compost or a slow-release organic fertilizer such as Milorganite. The ultimate benefit is a healthier plant that requires much less water.

And remember, starting right does not mean that you stop after placing your plant in the ground and you are gone.

You need to give your plants enough time to establish themselves. It may take months! For example, the plants I installed Last fall received a lot of water from mother nature and myself until spring. It seems that it should be a long time for the establishment. And usually that’s the way it is. However, it also depends on other things. How the roots were prepared, The condition of the soil, the type of plant, its exposure in the landscape, etc. play a role in the time it takes for the plants to finally settle down and live independently of our help.

Despite my diligence, this summer has been excessively hot and dry. Some of the plants I have grown since autumn are still struggling and my intervention is still necessary. So the moral of the story is that it can take a lot longer than you think, from several months to a year or more. The best advice I have is to pay attention to how your plants react to environmental pressures and act accordingly. In my matter, additional watering on my part is always indispensable, although the plants should be fine on their own in less extreme conditions.

Add mulch as much as possible

For everything you plant, the best way to save water is to keep what is in the soil for as long as possible. A two-inch layer of mulch (crushed leaves, crushed bark, wood chips, cut grass, straw, etc.) will do wonders to create a protective barrier against the evaporating effects of the sun and wind and significantly reduce the amount of water needed to keep your plants hydrated.

In the lawn, you can achieve a similar effect by mowing your grass at the highest Level of its favorite sector. The higher the grass, the less influence the sun and wind have on evaporation at ground level.

Water at the right time of day

One of the best ways to direct water to your lawn and garden is to make sure you do so when the heat and wind are minimal.

The Best Time to Water early in the Morning. Think about the dew cycle, usually between 4:00 and 7:00. In this way, the water has time to penetrate into the soil without evaporation effects due to subsequent watering. In this way, you can easily save 50% of the lost water compared to overhead irrigation at noon.

Deep water, but rare

Although it may seem counterintuitive, Watering less often, but deeper, encourages the roots to grow further to find water when it is not available near the ground. The Alternative to frequent and short watering sessions never encourages the roots to look for water elsewhere, because everything they need (for now) is on the surface.

The Problem with this Approach is that frequent Watering of Plants less dürretolerant done. This is especially true for lawns. Typically, lawns are thirsty places. We often make the mistake of offering short sessions with frequent watering. The Modification of this Approach for long Meetings, promotes less the better root growth and, by a reduction in water demand.

Direct water where it is needed

The best way to save water in your ornamental and edible beds is to direct the water directly into the soil and around the roots. The easiest way to do this is with soaking pipes and drip irrigation. And if you apply a layer of mulch to it, almost 100% of the water will go exactly where it is needed.

Soaking hoses are best suited when you need to bring water to a general area like a vegetable or flower bed. Water slowly and evenly seeps out of the porous pipes and finally saturates the soil under the length of the pipe. I use garden hoses connected to battery-powered portable timers to set my irrigation needs on autopilot.

The garden hoses I use are not recycled tires like just about everything else on the market. These (as in the Picture above) are Food grade polyurethane hose from WaterRight Inc. The timers I like and use (see also above) are from Rain Bird. They are easy to program, robust, reliable and affordable.

Drip irrigation uses small spaghetti-shaped pipes and plastic radiators at the end to ensure a slow and steady water supply in a specific place. They are ideal for containers, and are also suitable for shrubs. Drip systems are inexpensive, easy to use and offer the best solution to keep potted plants hydrated with minimal water consumption.

In any matter, I like to use these methods in combination with a simple battery-operated timer. The combination allows me to release water slowly and exactly where the roots can find it and absorb it, and this at the optimal time of day and without having to turn it on or off.

This is simply the best of all worlds when it comes to saving water (and time) wherever it is convenient to provide additional watering.

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